Mount Cleveland, the highest peak in Glacier National Park, offers a challenging and rewarding climbing experience. With an elevation of 10,466 feet, it presents various routes for climbers of different skill levels. This guide provides essential information on climbing routes, safety tips, best times to climb, and recommended gear for tackling this majestic peak in the heart of Glacier National Park.
What Are the Specific Cleveland Glacier Climbing Routes?
Mount Cleveland offers several climbing routes, each with its unique challenges:
- West Face Route
- Difficulty: Class 3 scramble with possible short exposed Class 4 sections
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 6,100 vertical feet from Goat Haunt
- Distance: About 8 miles, with only two miles on human trails
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Starting Point: Waterton Valley
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Stoney Indian Route
- Difficulty: Class 3-4 scramble
- Total Distance: Round trip of about 70+ km
- Elevation Gain: Over 2000 meters cumulative
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Key Features:
- Large scree slope scramble
- Exposed traverse across Stoney Indian Peaks’ east side
- 2-mile ledge traverse across Stoney Indian Peaks’ west and east faces
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Southeast Face Route
- Difficulty: Steep snow and ice climbing, Class 3-4
- Distance: Approximately 10 miles from Chief Mountain Customs Station to Glenns Lake
- Elevation Gain: 2,800-foot vertical climb on steep snow and ice
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Key Sections:
- Bushwhacking up Whitecrow Mountain Ridge
- Traversing to and crossing Whitecrow Glacier
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North Face Route
- Difficulty: Highly challenging, Class 4-5 terrain
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 4,000 feet vertical ascent
- Key Challenges:
- Bushwhacking from Goat Haunt Lookout trail
- Deep couloir climb
- Navigation through gullies, spires, ridges, ledges, and steep scree slopes
What Are the Essential Cleveland Glacier National Park Safety Tips?
When climbing Cleveland Glacier, safety should be your top priority. Here are crucial safety tips:
- Wildlife Precautions
- Carry bear spray and know how to use it
- Be aware of grizzly bears and other wildlife in the area
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Store food properly to avoid attracting animals
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Weather Considerations
- Check weather forecasts before and during the climb
- Be prepared for sudden changes in mountain weather
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Bring appropriate gear for rain, snow, and high winds
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Emergency Preparedness
- Carry a satellite phone or personal locator beacon (PLB)
- Know emergency contact numbers for Glacier National Park rangers
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Inform someone of your climbing plans and expected return time
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General Safety Measures
- Ensure you have necessary climbing skills and experience
- Bring adequate food, water, and first aid supplies
- Use proper climbing gear and know how to use it
- Stay on designated trails when possible
When Is the Best Time to Climb Cleveland Glacier?
Timing is crucial for a successful and safe climb of Cleveland Glacier. Consider the following:
- Seasonal Weather Patterns
- Summer (June to September): Most stable weather and better snow conditions
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Average Temperatures:
- Daytime: 40°F to 60°F (4°C to 15°C)
- Nighttime: Can drop significantly lower
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Recommended Months
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July and August are optimal due to:
- More stable weather conditions
- Better trail conditions
- Longer daylight hours
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Considerations for Other Seasons
- Spring: High avalanche risk, unstable snow conditions
- Fall: Potential for early snowfall, colder temperatures
- Winter: Extreme conditions, not recommended for most climbers
What Are the Recommended Climbing Gear Specifications?
Proper gear is essential for a safe and successful climb. Here’s a comprehensive list:
- Ropes and Harnesses
- Durable climbing ropes suitable for Class 3-5 climbing
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Comfortable, well-fitting harnesses
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Snow and Ice Equipment
- Crampons: Compatible with your climbing boots
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Ice Axe: Appropriate length for your height
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Protection Gear
- Helmet: Lightweight and well-ventilated
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Climbing protection: Cams, nuts, and other anchoring devices
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Navigation and Communication
- GPS device with extra batteries
- Topographic map and compass
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Satellite phone or PLB
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Safety Equipment
- First aid kit with altitude sickness medication
- Bear spray (easily accessible)
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Emergency shelter (bivy sack or lightweight tent)
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Clothing and Footwear
- Layered clothing system for varying temperatures
- Waterproof and breathable outer layers
- Sturdy, broken-in climbing boots
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Gloves and warm hat
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Other Essentials
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- High-energy snacks and sufficient water
- Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses, hat)
What Are the Permit Requirements for Climbing Cleveland Glacier?
Before embarking on your Cleveland Glacier climbing adventure, be aware of the permit requirements:
- Backcountry Permit
- Required for all overnight stays in Glacier National Park’s backcountry
- Can be obtained at park visitor centers or online
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Reservations recommended during peak season (July-August)
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Entrance Fee
- Standard Glacier National Park entrance fee applies
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Consider purchasing an annual pass if planning multiple visits
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Special Considerations
- Group size limits may apply in certain areas
- Some routes may require additional permissions or notifications to park rangers
How Can Climbers Minimize Their Environmental Impact?
Preserving the pristine environment of Glacier National Park is crucial. Follow these guidelines:
- Leave No Trace Principles
- Pack out all trash, including biodegradable items
- Use established campsites and trails when possible
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Properly dispose of human waste (use WAG bags if required)
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Wildlife Protection
- Observe wildlife from a distance
- Never feed animals
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Store food and scented items properly
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Vegetation Preservation
- Stay on designated trails to prevent erosion
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Avoid damaging vegetation, especially in fragile alpine areas
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Water Source Protection
- Camp at least 200 feet away from water sources
- Use biodegradable soap for washing, away from water sources
By following these guidelines and preparing thoroughly, climbers can enjoy a safe and rewarding experience climbing Cleveland Glacier in Glacier National Park while preserving its natural beauty for future generations.
References:
1. Mount Cleveland : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering – SummitPost
2. Mount Cleveland (Montana) – Wikipedia
3. Mount Cleveland | Steven’s Peak-bagging Journey